'Yes, Houston, the vexed question of whether you can wear silver or gold
jewellery simultaneously has finally and categorically been answered in
the affirmative.'
In case Seb Coe and Co are hyperventilating over the legacy
issue, I have one excellent option I can lay on the table right now.
Yes, Houston, the vexed question of whether you can wear silver or gold
jewellery simultaneously has finally and categorically been answered in
the affirmative. If that's not something to bequeath to future
generations, I don't know what is.
For years, women have tussled with this dilemma. You receive your
first piece of serious jewellery in your teen years, around
confirmation/bat mitzvah/13th summer solstice time. Invariably, it's
gold because, with apologies to Becky Adlington, gold does have a slight
edge over other metals. After that, it gets complicated. Jewellery,
being a marker of so many important milestones, can soon spiral out of
control. First comes the rites of passage Tiffany & Co heart
necklace (or copy thereof), followed in short order by the Links of
London charm bracelet, both silver. Then there are the Glasto years,
during which you pile on bracelets and necklaces made from rubber,
twine, old Coke tin pulls, your boyfriend's - sorry, ex-boyfriend's -
hair.
Left to right: Jessica Alba in yellow and white gold earrings, and Bottega Veneta autumn/winter 2012 PHOTO: REX/VLADIMIR POTOP
By now, your personal cache of "heirlooms" looks a right mess. Though
you, being a teenager, think it looks quirky and amazingly individual.
You add a nose stud, just to horrify your mother, and are appalled to
discover that while you were rebelliously instructing your best mate to
jab a needle through your nostril during a cider high on a tor in the
middle of a mudslide, your mum nipped into Selfridges to get a ring stud
of her own.
Next up is the engagement or first serious job ring. You become an
instant expert in carats, depth of clarity and platinum. You spend far
too much time on the S J Phillips website. You remove all the flotsam
and jetsam on your fingers, wrists, toes, ankles, nostrils, etc, and
start afresh with just the one, tasteful mega‑diamond. It's strictly
gold and diamonds from now on. You are a purist.
But then come the baby eternity rings, the promotion rewards, the
divorce consolations, the Presents to Oneself because no one else will
buy you what you like, the "precious" (case in point) gifts from
grannies and godchildren. You love them to bits, but would it be too
much for them to realise that only gold works with your colouring?
Before you know it, you're out-blinging the Olympic cauldron, but not
with any kind of medal-worthy style.
Shop: Gold
So let's take a deep breath and start again. Because while all kinds
of jewellery mixes can work beautifully, they have to be the right kind
of all kinds. Two of the most inspiring jewellery wearers - Coco Chanel
and Camille Miceli, the ridiculously chic Parisian who designs jewellery
for Dior - share a knack for apparently insouciantly chucking it all on
together, but don't be fooled. There's rigorous method to their
spontaneity. Both pay attention to scale and, while they boldly combine
fakes and the real thing, they never try to marry piddly, delicate
pieces with stonking stones. While Miceli mixes materials, including
wood bangles with pearl chokers (Chanel generally stuck with gold), she
only wears colours that suit her olive skin.
"It's particularly chic to wear silver, gold and bronze together,"
says Monica Vinader, who is no slouch in the jewellery wearing
department. As for which metals suit: "Rose gold looks best on pale
skin. I love gold worn with dark hair and, as I get older, I think gold
is the most flattering metal on me. Silver looks best with a tan."
Left to right: Charm necklace from £65, Monica Vinader;
monicavinader.com. Earrings £225, Zara Simon; astleyclarke.com. Necklace
£170, Lulu Frost at Liberty; 020 7734 1234.
Elizabeth Taylor's record-breaking jewellery auction
Bec Clarke, the elegant founder of Astley Clarke, advises thinking
about unity of design. "Don't mix boho with edgy angles - it's too
confusing a message. Wear maxi chains with a little pendant. Pearls look
great layered and knotted in different lengths [à la Coco Chanel] and
even better with a modern maxi chain added to the mix."
Clarke also recommends going precious every day. "Fine jewellery
shouldn't be left to gather dust in a jewellery box. I always start my
outfit with my jewellery, not the other way round. One statement piece
supported by finer, miniature jewellery details is a good rule. If
you're going for grown-up boho, layer coloured gemstone friendship
bracelets alongside colourful stacking rings."
Remember, too, the power of refusal.Despite her job, Miceli regularly
goes jewellery-less, which makes a strong statement in itself and also
guarantees that when she does wear jewels, they get noticed.